From Rough to Radiant ~ The Unique Techniques of Award-Winning Gem Cutter John Dyer

Gem cutter John Dyer, owner of John Dyer & Company since 1996, began his career in the gem business when he was 17. He had always been interested in business. He started selling gems with about twenty gemstones from a dealer on consignment. Then, he began visiting jewelry stores, trying to sell them. Thus, John’s education about the business started in earnest.

Over time, a family friend said he had been to Zambia, where rough gemstones were for sale, principally emeralds. So, off he went, accompanied by the friend and John’s father, David Dyer. Returning to the U.S. with a handful of rough emeralds, John sought someone to cut them for him. He was referred to someone in Connecticut who cut three pieces for him. The results were disappointing, to say the least. So, his father, who knew a little about machining, suggested that John buy a faceting machine and try it himself. Soon, he fell in love with gem cutting. His disposition for careful work and tendency towards perfectionism stood him in good stead in this field. 

“The largest gem-quality Montana sapphire ever cut”

Over the years, John honed his skills and discovered new techniques. Soon, he began winning prizes for his cutting skills. He has won over sixty of them, significantly contributing to his business success. As with all things, this has taken time, attention, and patience. Above all, John credits Jesus Christ for His help and guidance through the many challenges and rewards.

John’s goal is to try to transform each piece of rough into as beautiful a gem as possible with God's help. Working towards this goal, John and his assistants use different cutting techniques and styles depending on each piece of rough’s unique qualities. Anything from traditional-looking flat faceting to concave faceting to wild and wonderful fantasy styles, each gem rough is cut in a way that tries to realize its full potential for beauty.

John remarks, “We sell exceptionally well-cut gems, each being unique in exactly how we cut it because each cut is tailored to the individual rough gem. This, combined with our use of a wide range of cutting techniques and styles, results in sapphires, tourmalines, garnets, aquamarines, and many other gems that are unlike anything else on the market.”

Rather than offering cutting services, John has chosen to only cut gems for inventory and then offer them for sale at the Tucson Showcase and on JohnDyerGems.com. Each gem they cut has a Certificate of Authenticity, complete with information about the cutting style and origin of the gem. Today, John Dyer & Company is widely recognized in the world gem trade for providing gorgeous gems, ethical dealing, and high-quality inventive cutting.

Engagement rings are hot right now

John says that natural sapphires, with their unique and beautiful cuts, are very popular now for use in engagement rings. He explains, “Besides the brilliant, precision and modern cutting styles, engagement ring clients like that they can buy from a well-known gem cutter and choose from a wide range of colors and shapes while also getting the relevant information on the sapphire's origin and enhancements.

John relates a story about a recent challenge he had cutting the largest piece of Montana sapphire rough that he had ever worked with. “By God’s grace, we were able to acquire this exceptionally rare and large piece of rough,” he recalls, “and my challenge was to try to cut it into a finished gem that was both beautiful and what is (according to our research) the largest gem-quality Montana sapphire ever cut. He says that the process was painstaking, lengthy, and suspenseful. Still, the result was a Montana Sun sapphire weighing in at precisely 33 carats, about 13 carats larger than the next largest cut gem-quality Montana sapphire in existence, at least that John and his team are aware of.

You can see John Dyer & Company’s fine gem-cutting work at two shows in the 2025 Tucson Gem, Mineral & Fossil Showcase, the Pueblo Gem & Mineral Show, and GJX Gem & Jewelry Exchange. Learn more about John and his company on the John Dyer & Company profile page on the Xpo Press website.